An appraisal of the ‘Dervish state’ in northern Somalia

[Aristocat]

An appraisal of the ‘Dervish state’ in northern Somalia (1899-1920)
By Markus V. Hoehne University of Leipzig May 13, 2014 ___________________________________________________________________________

The Somali Dervish ‘state’ was related to the Dervish uprising, that shook the British Protectorate and other parts of northern and also partly southern Somalia between 1899 and 1920. A ‘state’ implies a minimum of centralised and institutionalised power (i.e., a government), a territory and a population. The Somali Dervish state indeed featured a clear centralised governance structure, with Sayid Mohamed Abdille Hassan on top. The Sayid (which is an honorary title; the British called him ‘Mad Mullah’) was surrounded by a group of trusted commanders and advisors who were members of the Dervish council (in Somali called khusuusi). Together, the Sayid and the council controlled the military units. Islamic judges had the task of upholding law and order among the Dervishes and their kin. But clearly, Mohamed Abdille Hassan had the power to take the final decision in all matters he deemed important. The Somali Dervish state never had a clearly demarcated territory. The Dervishes operated between different temporary local centres (e.g., Aynabo, Buuhoodle, Eyl, Taleeh) in northern Somalia and, for a shorter period, had also stations in central Somalia such as Beledweyn. When confronted with superior colonial forces, their usual strategy was to retreat to the sparsely inhabited and arid hinterland. Also the population of the Somali Dervish state fluctuated. It consisted largely of the close patrilineal relatives and wives of the followers of Sayid Mohamed Abdille Hassan. Only temporarily did the Dervishes establish more permanent centres of power and ruled over larger areas. Therefore, it is appropriate to speak of the Somali Dervish movement/state.

Mohamed Abdille Hassan was the charismatic leader of the Dervish movement/state. He was a gifted poet, and Islamic scholar and a warrior. Born of an Ogadeen/Bah Geri father and a Dhulbahante/Ali Geri mother in the countryside near the village of Buuhoodle, in 1856
or in 1864 (Aw Jaamac 1976; Martin 2003 [1976]: 180), Mohamed grew up in a pastoralnomadic
environment (Aw Jaamac 1976: 3-5; Samatar 1982: 100). He then learned the Koran
and became an itinerant sheikh (Somali: wadaad). In the 1890s Mohamed visited Mecca and
Medina several times. He came into contact with Sheikh Mohamed ibn Salih in Mecca and
joined his order, the Salihiya. Mohamed became a khalifa (initiator recruiting followers) for
the order (Arabic: tariqa) in Somalia (Martin 2003 [1976]: 180; Aw Jaamac 1976: 6-7). The
Salihiya belonged to the Islamic reform movements in the nineteenth century. Its teachings
were inspired by the earlier ideas of ibn Taymiya (1262-1328) and Mohamed ibn Abdul-
Wahab (1703-1792).

When Mohamed returned from Mecca around 1895, he settled briefly in Berbera, the
central port and the administrative centre of the recently established British Protectorate of
Somaliland, to win over new followers for his tariqa. He preached against new fashions and
cooperation with the Christian colonisers. He caused considerable unease among the local
religious and business elite and raised the concern of the British administrators. Finally he
retreated to the south-east of the protectorate. There his teaching fell on fertile ground. On the
one hand the local Dhulbahante and Ogadeen clans at the southern margins of the British
sphere and at the eastern frontier of the Ethiopian Empire were experiencing the violence of
Menelik II’s army on a daily basis. On the other, the pastoral-nomadic clans in the interior
had not been much exposed to religious teaching in general (Martin 2003 [1976]: 180-81;
Samatar 1982: 99-108).

Sayid Mohamed Abdille Hassan established his first headquarter near the Aynabo
wells in the borderlands between the Dhulbahnate and Isaaq territories. He taught religion,
recruited followers for the Salihiya and mediated disputes among the local groups. His
influence grew rapidly and after two years he had brought many Dhulbahante, but also
Isaaq/Habar Je’lo and Habar Yonis under his sway. He adopted the name Dervishes (Somali:
Darawiishta) for his followers. Their marker of distinction was a white turban and a tusbax (‘string of prayer beads’) (Samatar 1982: 108; Aw Jaamac 1976: 13-14). Many Dervishes rode on horseback (most northern Somalis were not horsemen).

It is unclear if Mohamed Abdille Hassan had in mind the foundation of an armed resistance movement from the very beginning. Nevertheless, soon the Dervishes presented themselves as militant organisation. The majority of them came from the Dhulbahante clan. Members of this clan were camel herders and renown warriors (Cruttenden 1849). The British had not concluded a ‘treaty of protection’ with them, as they had done with the inhabitants of the coast, who belonged to various Isaaq or Dir clans. In 1899, the first concerted action of Dervishes targeted the settlement of another tariqa (called Ahmediya) near the town of Sheekh in the centre of the British Protectorate. Afterwards Mohamed Abdille Hassan set out to expand his sphere of influence toward Berbera in the north, but also further east. Who of the local clan leaders stood in his way was assassinated (Samatar 1982: 118).

Most of the time the Dervish forces avoided battles in the open, since every direct encounter resulted in huge losses for them. A particularly disastrous event was the fighting at a place called Jidbaley in the British Protectorate in 1904. Here, the British troops and their Somali hands, some of whom actually belonged to the Dhulbahante clan, massacred more than 600 Dervishes in one day, out of a force totalling approximately 60008000 men. The flight of the remaining Dervishes ended almost in annihilation of the movement. Boqor Usman Mahamuud, the leader of the Majeerteen clan, who since 1899 was officially under Italian suzerainty, was forced by the Italians to attack the fleeing Dervishes. Simultaneously, British and Italian soldiers stormed Illig (Eyl), a last coastal Dervish stronghold on the Indian Ocean. Thereupon many Ogadeen deserted the Dervish forces. Sayid Mohamed immortalised the horror and desperation he and his followers went through after Jidbaley in a poem called ‘Jiinley’. It dwelled on the deception of Boqor Usman and the desertion of the Ogadeen warriors, embedded in references to religious and miraculous phenomena (Samatar 1979: 72) The measurable result of the skilful poetic outrage was that many Ogadeen who had deserted the Sayid earlier returned or at least sent livestock and arms in his support. The Majeerteen boqor reversed his course and established some (clandestine) relation with the Dervishes On the brink of defeat, the Dervishes entered into an agreement with the Italians. This had to do with the particularities of Italian colonial politics. On the one hand, the Italians had to consider the fine balance of power among the Majeerteen (Boqor Usman contended for power with his paternal cousin Suldaan Yusuf Ali Keenadiid of Hobiyo). On the other hand, the Italians had seen how costly it had been for the British to pursue a military solution to the Dervish problem. Moreover, they wished to make a difference. In October 1904 Mohemd Abdille Hassan met with Giulio Pestalozza, the Italian consul for Somalia. In exchange for a promise of peace he received a territory that started at the small port of Illig/Eyl on the Indian Ocean, traversed a corridor between the northern and the southern Majeerteen territories, and reached into the Nugaal valley in the west (Hess 1966: 133-34). The Dervishes built a small castle in Eyl, which served as their headquarters (Somali: xaruun) between approximately 1905 and 1909.
This little ‘Dervish state’ however, was not what Sayid Mohamed had wanted. The Dervish leader used the break after the treaty of Illig to recover and reinforce his army. He conferred also with other Somali clans, including the strong Bimaal groups in the south of the peninsula (Cassanelli 1982: 247-50). The Dervish movement was certainly not without its internal divisions and weaknesses. The autocratic style of rule of Mohamed Abdille Hassan shocked many of his close followers and repeatedly caused men and whole lineages to desert him. In 1909 the Sayid took up his struggle again by marching into the British Protectorate and briefly threatening (again) to attack Berbera. The British were baffled. The Dervish uprising cost them dearly and the crown had not calculated such huge capacities and expenses for the relatively unimportant Protectorate of Somaliland. Initially, the British just wished to be present on the other side of Aden in order to secure the meat supply for the garrison there through Somali livestock. They had not set out to control and govern the interior (Samatar 1982: 126-33).

Additionally, Britain got caught up in the First World War. London decided to end the pursuit of the Dervishes and to retreat. The activities of the Protectorate’s administration were confined to the coast. Upon retreat, the British armed some loyal (mostly Isaaq) clans in the interior. This led to the escalation of massive retaliatory fighting between various northern Somali clans and to a state of civil war (Geshekter 1985: 17; Kakwenzire 1986: 667; Sheikh-Abdi 1993: 95-97, 145-159). For a while the Dervishes were the dominant power in the Protectorate. They built several stone fortresses throughout the northern peninsula, particularly in today’s Sanaag region (e.g., in Midhisho, Shimbir Bariis and Badhan). The largest fortress, however, was built in Taleh in the Nugaal Valley (today’s Sool region), between 1913 and 1915. In this period, the Dervishes also gained their most prestigious victory in the battle of Jiidali (near today’s town of Bur’o). In this battle, the British commander of the new Camel Constabulary, Richard Corfield, was killed by Dervished on 9 August 1913. The death of the leading ‘infidel’ was celebrated by the Sayid in a poem called Kofiil in Somali, famous for its gruesome content.
Once the Dervishes had established their fortresses, the enemy could just come and engage them in fighting at will. From attackers they became the attacked. Previously they had made good use of mobility and crossing colonial state borders. Repeatedly they had escaped the British, their most formidable enemy, by fleeing into the Ethiopian or the Italian sphere. The final blow was given to the Somali Dervish movement/state after the end of the First World War. In 1919 Britain mobilised the now free resources and capacities to deal effectively with the uprising. It sent infantry and warplanes to Taleh, the ‘capital’ of the Dervish state. It air bombarded the fortress in early 1920. The use of airplanes proved to be a shock for the Sayid and his followers. They abandoned their centre and fled towards the Ogadeen territory. There, close to the birthplace of his patrilineal forefathers, Said Mohamed Abdille Hassan died of natural causes within a year (Aw Jaamac 1976: 272-75; Kakwenzire 1986: 668).

In postcolonial times Sayid Mohamed Abdille Hassan was celebrated as a Somali hero and proto-nationalist. Hersi (1977: 256-57, fn. 28) observed that ‘it is because the Sayyid’s fight against clan fissures and his nearly successful campaigns to rally pan-Somali resistance to colonialism that present-day Somalis and some writers consider him as the inspirer and symbol of modern Somali nationalism’. School children learned his poems and his statute was erected in Mogadishu (it was demolished in 1991, when the recent Somali civil war broke out).
Up until today, the narrative of the heroic Dervish uprising is alive – or better: it was revived again. It underpins – as ‘ideology’, so to say – the establishment of the ‘autonomous’ regional administration in the area between Buuhoodle and Taleh called Khaatumo State of Somalia (founded in 2012, succeeding the SSC administration between 2009 and 2011). Its supporters, who mainly belong to the Dhulbahante clan, consciously refer back to the Dervish uprising to create a political tradition of anti-colonial resistance and Somali nationalism, and to justify their unionist stance against Somaliland’s separatism and Puntland’s indifference

[Aristocat]

No doubt the sick ardent tribal fantasists and pseudo historian will raise his timorous voice to condemn this scholarly essay as Daarood/Kacaan Revisionism.

[skywalker25]

What is this children story you bring before us. Some silly student with minimum knowledge had put together the words "dervish" and "liberation" and you've lost all your senses. If you want to gain knowledge or bring something worthwhile please do so on that thread about the Dervish movement. Otherwise what you are doing here just looks a bit like the dervish movement, desperate and weak..

[Hodan94]

What is this children story you bring before us. Some silly student with minimum knowledge had put together the words "dervish" and "liberation" and you've lost all your senses. If you want to gain knowledge or bring something worthwhile please do so on that thread about the Dervish movement. Otherwise what you are doing here just looks a bit like the dervish movement, desperate and weak..

they think this dervish movement was their own, little do they know that most of them were against the movement at the time, finding his fellow tribesman the ogadeen useless and even reer hagars were almost wiped off from existence due to the madmullah.

yet this fake properganda made them love this mullah again. like afweyne isaaq supported him at the beginning and discarded him in the end which led him to become very weak.

and I have one message for the dooros most of your so called 'leaders' became leaders due to the approval of isaaq.... they all fell into the deeper end due to isaaq.. my message is do not bite of the hand that feeds you..

[X.Playa]

One look at his sources and that is enough telling. The usual suspects , Aw Jaamac cumar Ciise ( author of Taariikhda Daraawiishta iyo Sayid Maxamed Cabdulle Xasan . 1976., sponsored and printed by The government ministry "Wasaarada Tacliinta", Said Sheekh Samatar (author of Somali Nationalism and Oral poetry: The Case Of Mohammed Abdulle Hassan) 1982. , and Abdi Sheekh Abdi ( author of Divine Madness).1993. All the later are members of the Kuumbo Alchemist who turned a terrorist organization led by a Mad illiterate Ogadeen , few Habar Jeclo adventures and a Mullah Sultan of the Habar Yoonis, into a Daaroodist clannish pomp and bravado . We don't need to revisit this subject by now most of us are familiar with the three amigos ( aw Jaamac, Samatar, Abdi ) the fourth amigo Idaajaa is however missing , one should advice the young European student to add him to the list and complete the satire.

[Kukri]

"Mohamed Abdille Hassan was the charismatic leader of the Dervish movement/state."

Don't want to derail the topic but that line above is exactly how the leader of Boko Haram was described on the news yesterday

[abdikarim86]

^ Interesting.

I've wondered somewhat ...was/is there any difference between the current salafi based terrorist movements
of the world today and the Dervish movement.

They both had the takfiri mentality that is for sure and a thirst for cold-blooded murder.

[blizzard90]

but i though this Sayid abdi guy ran away from the battle and died in ethiopia running away.
why is he a hero.? mujahids are supposed to die in the battle field right.?

[Kukri]

^ Interesting.

I've wondered somewhat ...was/is there any difference between the current salafi based terrorist movements
of the world today and the Dervish movement.

They both had the takfiri mentality that is for sure and a thirst for cold-blooded murder.

waryaa Sayidku geesi bu aha.

Sayidku had every right to take up arms against the colonial powers.

odeygu ha waalnaado
oo cidii ka hor timaad ha la'ayo
Inu geesi aha waa bah silly in la is weydiiyo.

The only time i will insult the Mad Mullah is when a silly little darood kid try to use him to dis another clan.
But as far as europeans iyo shisheeye are concerned he was a bleeding hero mate..

[abdikarim86]

^ From your posts I noticed you dislike the takfiri movements of today
How do you justify being a supporter of the mad mullah and being an opponent
takfiri movements.

I don't have an extreme view of the so-called Sayid ...and I don't believe he was a qabilist.
I am sure in his mind he thought he was fighting a noble cause against the europeans.

Laakin a takfiri is a takfiri at the end of the day surely

[Kukri]

^ From your posts I noticed you dislike the takfiri movements of today
How do you justify being a supporter of the mad mullah and being an opponent
takfiri movements.

I don't have an extreme view of the so-called Sayid ...and I don't believe he was a qabilist.
I am sure in his mind he thought he was fighting a noble cause against the europeans.

Laakin a takfiri is a takfiri at the end of the day surely

Like i told Aristocat,...when he asked something similar in regards to Bashar Al Asad. How can i support him as a dictator and oppose MSB (aun)?


The two are fundamentally different.

[abdikarim86]

I see fair enough ....I don't see the difference, you clearly do.

Care to explain?

[Aristocat]

One look at his sources and that is enough telling. The usual suspects , Aw Jaamac cumar Ciise ( author of Taariikhda Daraawiishta iyo Sayid Maxamed Cabdulle Xasan . 1976., sponsored and printed by The government ministry "Wasaarada Tacliinta", Said Sheekh Samatar (author of Somali Nationalism and Oral poetry: The Case Of Mohammed Abdulle Hassan) 1982. , and Abdi Sheekh Abdi ( author of Divine Madness).1993. All the later are members of the Kuumbo Alchemist who turned a terrorist organization led by a Mad illiterate Ogadeen , few Habar Jeclo adventures and a Mullah Sultan of the Habar Yoonis, into a Daaroodist clannish pomp and bravado . We don't need to revisit this subject by now most of us are familiar with the three amigos ( aw Jaamac, Samatar, Abdi ) the fourth amigo Idaajaa is however missing , one should advice the young European student to add him to the list and complete the satire.

I presume all the other sources cited by the author are also Daaroodist and Kacaan revisionists
Those of us who are familiar with you already know that inferiority complex and extreme xenophobia are the handmaidens of your propaganda.
Judging by your ironic use of the word, i can see that you are familiar with the art of satire, which means you should also have some knowledge about the notions of Parody and projecting. If you don't , you should look into it, you may subconsciously realise something and perhaps, then you would stop asking us to the believe the feculent vomiting of a halitosis reeking, drink-soaked,tribal huckster and paltalk lecturer over an academic scholar at a prestigious University.

[Aristocat]

49 )
APPENDIX


Interesting article about Somali tribes by Charles Cruttenden in 1849.

No. 1.

Memoir on the Western or Edoor Tiihea, inhabiting the Somali Coast*
of N.'E, Africa^ with the Southern branches of the family of
Darrood^ resident on tlie banks of the JVebbe Shebeyli, commonly
called the River Webbe. By Lieut. C. J. Cruttenden, Indian
Navy, Assistant Political Agent at Aden. Dated Aden, 12th
May, 1848. (Communicated by Sif Charles Malcolm.)

[Read Nov. 13, 1848.]

During the time that I was employed at the wreck of the
East India Company's steam-frigate Memnon, at Ras Assair,
on the N.E. coast of Africa, I employed myself in obtaining
what information I could, relative to the tribes on the coast,
which I had the honour to forward to Government on my
return. As, however, I have since that time had further
opportunities of visiting the different branches of the Somali
tribes, I now beg to offer a few remarks in addition, relative
chiefly to those tribes inhabiting the African coast westward
from Burnt Island, and distinguished among the windward
tribes as the " Edoor."

From Ras Hafoon on the eastern coast to Zeyla, the country
is known by the name of the Bur e Somal ; and il is divided
between two great nations, who both tracing their origin from
the Arab province of Hadramaut, are yet at bitter and endless
feud with each other. The principal of these two great fami-
lies is that to the eastward, or windward of Burnt Island.
The other extends from Burnt Island or Bunder Jedid to
Zeyla, and is divided into three great tribes, namely, the
Haber Gerhajis, the Haber Awal, and the Haber el Jahleh
(Habcr meaning the sons of), who were the children of Isaakh
by three wives — the said Isaakh having crossed over from Ha-
dramaut some time after his countrymen had founded the na-
tion to the eastward, and settled at the town of Meyet near
Burnt Island, where his tomb exists to this day. The eldest
branch, the Haber Gerhajis, was put in possession of the frontier
mountains of Kooleis and Woohur to the southward, and the
other two brothers were placed on either side of them : — the
Haber Awal establishing themselves on the low lands from
Berbera to Zeyla and the Haber el Jahleh locating themselves

♦ For the Map of the Somali country rwfethe last volume of this Journal. — Ed.
VOL. XIX. E



50 Lt. Cruttenden on tlie Edoor Tribes and the Darrood.

at KuiTum, Enterad, Unkor, and Heis, four small ports to the
eastward of Berbera*.

The tract of country thus subdued, yet remains in the hands
of the posterity of Isaakh. The Galla tribes of the EsaSomal,
and Gidr Beersi to the westward, professed the faith of Islam
and were permitted to retain their possessions. Of these
tribes, the Gidr Beersi limit the Haber Awal to the westward,
and are bounded by the Esa Somal, a very numerous horde,
nominal Mohammedans, extending as far as Hurrur to the
S.S.W., and to the borders of the Weema and Dunkali coun-
try to the westward. The remaining Galla tribes either be-
came mixed up with their semi- Arab conquerors, or were
driven across the Webbe river. I ought to say, one of the
Webbe rivers, for there appear to be three or four, though the
principal branch, and that to which I allude, is doubtless the
Shebeyli, a river* taking its rise in the province of Gurari,
and which, making a considerable curve to tne N. and E., finally
loses itself in the sand below Mukdesha, not far from the sea.

Meanwhile the nation to the eastward had not been idle.
The Mijjerthaine and Ahl Gor Singally secured the whole sea-
board from Hafoon to Bunder Jedid. The Dulbahantah esta-
blished themselves on the prairie land south of the lofty range
of the Cor Singally mountains. The tribe of Murreyhan took

Possession of the country of Nogal, abounding in myrrh of the
nest quality, whilst the Ahl Ogahden, Girrhi and Burtirri,
occupied the country to the westward until they reached to
the south of' Berbera. The southern boundary of the four last-
named tribes of Darrood was the river Webbe or Shebeyli,
which thus defines the Somali country from near Mukdesha on
the eastern coast, to twelve days' journey S.S.W. from Zeyla.

I have been assured by many of the Gidr Beersi that in the
mountains forming the southern barrier of their country there are
many wonderful ruins of stone and chunam, the work of former
ages, and abounding in inscriptions which no one can read. How-
ever tempting this description may appear, it must be received
" cum grano," for after a careful search along the coast from
Cape Assair to Zeyla, I have not succeeded, in finding any
remains of antiquity, save the aqueduct at Berbera, elsewhere
mentioned in this memoir, nor is it likely that an illiterate
savage would be able to distinguish an inscription from an
ornamental border on a stone. It is, however, to be hoped
that an opportunity will be afforded of examining this very



* Called by Lieut. Christopher the Haines's River. I am assured by many of the
Somalis who have traded beyond Hurrur, that the three rivers, the Jub, or Webbe
Gauaneh, the Shebeyli, and the Hawash, all take their rise in the mountains of Bugama.



Government of Rurrur, 5 1

interesting countrjr. Interesting it must be for many reasons ;
the possibility of inscriptions— the extensive coflTee districts —
the probability of the more northerly rivers, that reach the sea,
either flowing close round or taking their rise in the moun-
tains — and the certainty that no European foot has hitherto
traversed this part of the country.

In February last year, a feud between two tribes near Berbera,
induced one — the Aial Yunus — to settle inland from a smallroad-
stead called Bou'l Harr. Here a few traders joined them, and
having left their women with the old men and children at the
encampment inland, the men descended to the beach, to carry
on their trade ; whilst thus employed, and unsuspicious of any
danger, a foraging party or " Ghuzoo " of about 2500 Esa
Somals attacked the camp inland and put every one to the
sword : men, women, and children were indiscriminately mas-
sacred. The Aial Yunus, paralysed by this catastrophe, were
fain to send for assistance to their brethren at Berbera, and
marching shortly after inland, met with a fresh body of the
Esa, preparing to make a second descent, of whom they slew
above 650 men.

The city of Hurrur, in the province of that name, though
hardly in the Somali country, is closely connected with it by
its commerce, especially by its slave-trade. Mr. M'Queen, in
his valuable ' Geographical Survey of Africa,' places it, in my
opinion, too far to the southward and westward. It is 8 days'
journey for a kafila of camels from Zeyla to Hurrur, and 9
days' n*om Berbera, and this would place it in about latitude
9° 22' N. and longitude 42° 35' E.

A tradition exists amonest the people of Hurrur, that the
prosperity of their city depends upon the exclusion of all
strangers not of the Moslem faith, and Christians are especially
interdicted. From what I have been able to gather, the tra-
veller would hardly be repaid the risk and fatigue that he
would have to undergo, and if he travelled as an European,
he would be exposed to much insult and ill-feeling from the
bigoted ruler and inhabitants of the place, who, sunk in the
lowest ignorance, still plume themselves upon their superior
sanctity, as followers of the true faith.

ITie government, founded in all probability during the reign
of Suleiman the Magnificent, when the Turks held possession
of Aden, is hereditary, and held by an Emir, all of wnose mak
relatives, as was formerly the case in Shda, are closely imprisoned,
as a guard against domestic treachery. The Emir's house is
perpetually surrounded with guards, and no one dares to pass
the gate of the court-yard mounted, or at a walk. He must
cover his face and run. The Emir's guard is composed of

k2



52 Lt. Cruttenden on the Edoor Tribes and the Darrood,

perhaps 60 matchlock-men, and he has also a body of native
spearmen in his pay ; a few rusty old iron guns ly'm^outside the
walls, with their muzzles pointed towards the Galla country,
are quite sufficient to keep these unruly savages from entering
the city, but the flocks and herds are frequently carried off
close to the walls. The city is described as larger than
Mokha, and situated in a fertile country, but is fast decaying.
Though many large and well-built houses of mud and stone
are still to be found, the majority of the people live in huts
made of mats and reeds, with a thorn fence round them. There
are five gates to the town, the whole of which are locked
nightly with the most jealous care, and the keys carried to the
Emir's house, a precaution which, seeing that about 20 yards
of the wall are knocked down, appears rather excessive. The
" Ashraffi," stamped at the Hurrur mint, is a coin peculiar to
the place. It is of silver and is in value the 22nd part of a
dollar. The only specimen that I have been able to procure
bore the date of 910 of the Hegira, with the name of the
Emir on one side, and on its reverse " La Illahi il Ullah."

The coffee districts are described as lying amtmgst a low
range of mountains near Hurrur, and to the southward. The
quantity exported is very large, and the quality fully equal
to that commonly sold as Mokha. Besides coffee, Hurriir
exports white cotton-cloths, used as dresses by the wealthier
classes. They are known by the name of " Tobe Hurruri,'* and
consist of a double length of 1 1 cubits by 2 in breadth. They
have a deep border of various colours, of which some are very
good, especially the scarlet.* The cotton of which they are
made is grown at Hurrur, and the price of a really good dress
is from five to eight dollars : on the windward coast, one of these
dresses is considered a handsome present for a chief, and I have
been offered a horse in exchange for one of moderate quality.
A few silk Loonges are also manufactured at Hurrur, and I
was assured that the silk is brought from the countries south
of Sh6a : cardamoms, gum-mastic, myrrh, a small quantity of
manna, saffron, and safflower, with the articles above men-
tioned, comprise the extent of the Hurrur trade, so far as
regards produce ; but the most valuable branch of commerce
is the export of slaves from Guragi and Habeska.

The duties levied at Hurrur are 10 per cent, on import
and export, and a further tax of 6 pounds of brass or 2J dollars
is laid on slaves of both sexes. The country in the vicinity is
described as well watered and fertile, and between the city and
the port of Zeyla the traveller crosses six small mountain-

<» Tlie Hurrur cloth is considered fully equal to that manufaotured iu$hda»



Zeyla — Slave-trade, 53

streams flowing to the south-east, viz., Nahr Nugush, Nahr
Shuktheyeh, Nahr Subbiti, Nahr Shefer Annan, Nahr Billoo,
Nahr Hamer.

Zeyla, the sea-port of Hurrur, but under the dominion of
the Sheriff of Mokha for the time being, is a miserable mud-
walled town, containing some 12 to 15 stone houses, 180 huts,
and 750 souls. It is situated on a low sandy point, nearly level
with the sea, and its nearest well of drinKable water lies at a
distance of 7 miles. A vessel of 250 tons cannot approach
within a mile of the town, and the anchorage is shallow and
difficult of entrance after sunset, on account of several reefs.
Zeyla, no doubt, originally was intended to serve as a sea-port
for Hurrur, for of itself it appears to be worth little. There
are no remains of antiquity to be found either in the town or
neighbourhood, and I should not assign an earlier date to the
settlement than a.d. 1500, or shortly after the occupation of
Yemen by the Turks.

The kingdom of the Imam, like most other native principali-
ties, having fallen into decay, the town is now under the autho-
rity of the Sheriff of Mokha, who has the power of displacing the
governor, should he think fit, but who yet receives no part of
the revenue;— this is farmed out, and the present chief, Hadj
Shermarkhi Ali Saleh, pays annually to Synd Mahomed el
Bhor at Mokha the sum of 750 German crowns, and reserves
all that he can collect above that sum for himself.

Zeyla levies a tax of one dollar upon each slave exported
from Tajoura, or imported from Hurrur, and afterwards sold
at Berbem. Formerly Zeyla obtained but three-quarters of a
dollar per head, the Sultan of Tajoura receiving the remainder;
but this has of late fallen into disuse.

With reference to the slave-trade, the position of Zeyla is
important. It is the sea-port of Hurrur, and it commands
Tajoura and Berbera, the only available places of export : and
when tlie time arrives for the final suppression of the slave-
trade on the north-eastern coast of Africa, the numerous advan-
tages held out by Zeyla will be duly appreciated. Hurrur
depends for its foreign supplies solely on Berbera and Zeyla,
and were these two ports cut off from the merchants, so far as
regards the sale of slaves, it must prove a death-blow to the
slave-commerce through that province from Abyssinia and
Guragi. Berbera once forbidden, Tajoura is the only remain-
ing outlet, and that outlet^ thanks to the marauding habits of
the Esa Somal and others, is much more frequently closed than
open.

The Haber Awal, as I have before stated, occupied the
lowlands between Berbera and Zeyla, a fertile tract of cotm-



51 Lt. Crutfenden on the Edour Tribes and the Darrood.

try with several low ranges of hills, and averaging perhaps
40 miles in depth, to 90 in length. The number of sheep,
goats, she-camels, &c., found on these plains, is perfectly in*,
credible, fully realizing the account given of the flocks and
herds of the patriarchs of old, for many of the elders of these
tribes own each more than 1500 she-camels, and their sheep
are innumerable ; asses are very numerous, and most admirably
adapted to the country. The camels are small and weak, and
are never used for riding, except in a case of sickness or a
wound, llie Haber Awal have no chief. The customs of
their forefathers are the laws of the country, and appear to be
based upon the simple principle ihat might gives right. Theft
is punishable with the loss of the right nana, and n>rtunate it
is for the Haber Awal, that this is not insisted upon, for
they are the most inveterate thieves that I ever found on
the coast. They wear the " Reesh " or ostrich feather after
slaying a man, but speak with abhorrence of the Esa custom of
mutilation after (and sometimes before) death.

That Berbera has existed as a port of great trade for several
centuries, I conceive to be almost sufficiently proved by the
fact of its being an annual rendezvous for so many nations,
and from the time for this great meeting having been chosen
so as to suit the set of the Red Sea and Indian monsoons.
But, with the exception of an aqueduct of stone and chunam,
some nine miles in length, Berbera exhibits no proofe of an-
tiquity; and the extraordinary remains of buildmgs, castles,
reservoirs, &c., still found at Aden, Hisn Ghirab, and Nukab
el Hajar, have no place on the sandy shores of North-East
Africa.

The annual fair is one of the most interesting sights on the
coast, if only from the fact of so many diflferent and distant
tribes being drawn together for a short time, to be again scat-
tered in all directions. Before the Towers of Berbera were
built, the place, from April to the early part of October, was
utterly deserted, not even a fisherman being found there ; but
no sooner did the season change, than the inland tribes com-
menced moving down towards the coast, and preparing their
huts for their expected visitors. Small craft from the ports
of Yemen, anxious to have an opportunity of purchasing before
vessels from the Gulf could arrive, hastened across ; followed,
about a fortnight to three weeks later, by their larger brethren
from xMuscat, Soor, and Ras el Khyma, and the valuably
freighted bugalas from Bahrein, Bussorah, and Graen. Lastly,
the fat and wealthy Banian traders from Porebnnder, Man-
davie, and Bombay rolled across in their clumsy kotias, and,
with a formidable row of empty ghee-jars slung over the



Berbera-^ Want of Water. 55

quarters of their vessels, elbowed themselves into a prominent
I)osition in the front tier of craft in the harbour, and, by their
superior capital, cunning, and influence, soon distanced all
competitors.

During the height of the fair, Berbera is a perfect Babel in
confusion, as in languages ; no chief is acknowledged, and the
customs of bygone years are the laws of the place. Disputes
between the inland tribes daily arise, and are settled by the
spear and dagger, the combatants retiring to the beach at a
short distance from the town, in order that they may not
disturb the trade. Long strings of camels are arriving and
departing day and night, escorted generally by women alone,
until at a distance from the town ; or an occasional group of
dusky and travel- worn children marks the arrival of the slave-
kafila from Hurrur and Efat.

At Berbera the Guragi and Hurrur slave-merchant meets
his correspondent from Bussorah, Baghdad, or Bunder Abbas;
and the savage Gidr Beersi, with his head tastefiiUy oma^
mented with a scarlet sheepskin in lieu of a wig, is seen peace-
ftilly bartering his ostrich-feathers and gums with the smoirth-
spoken Banian from Porebunder, who, prudently living on
board his ark, and locking up his puggree, which would
infallibly be knocked off the instant he was seen wearing it,
exhibits but a small portion of his wares at a time, under a
miserable mat-shed on the beach.

By the end of March the fair is nearly at a close, and craft
of all kinds, deeply laden, and sailing generally in parties of
three or four, commence their homeward journey. The Soori
boats are generally the last to leave, and by the first week in
April Berbera is again deserted, nothing being left to mark
the site of a town lately containing 20,000 inhabitants, beyond
bones of slaughtered camels and sheep, and the frame-work
of a few huts carefully piled on the beach in readiness for the
ensuing year. Beasts of prey now take the opportunity to
approach the sea. Lions are commonly seen at the town-well
during the hot weather; and in April last year, but a week
after the fair had ended, I observed three ostriches quietly
walking on the beach.

The great drawback to Berbera as a port is the scarcity of
good water— that in the two wells belonging to the town being
brackish; and the wealthier portion of the merchants are
therefore compelled to send to Seyareh, a small harbour 18
miles to the eastward, for a supply. I had frequently been
told by the Somalis at Berbera that the remains of an ancient
aqueduct were still to be seen ; and, taking advantc^ of an
unavoidable detention at that port, I visited the ruins^ and



56 Lt. Cruttknden an the Edoor TVibes and the Darrood.

satisfied myself that in former times water had been conveyed
to the port by an aqueduct of nearly nine miles in length.

At the distance of half a mile from the beach I found the
remains of a small building, apparently a mosque ; and close
to it a shallow reservoir, built of stone and chunam, having a
channel leading into it of about 20 inches in diameter, and
12 in depth. 1 opened this channel in two or three places,
and found it of an uniform size and structure. At about seven
yards from the reservoir it was lost for some distance, but by
walking in the direction of the nearest range of hills, known as
Dthubar, slabs of limestone and fragments of chunam served
to show the general course of the aqueduct ; and at about a
mile from the hill of Dthubar it was again found entire for
several yards. The cement used was as hard as the stone
itself, and, as usual in all ancient remains in this part of the
world, mixed with large pebbles. Many graves were observed
in the neighbourhood, and the stones of the aqueduct had
been used to form the tombs.

Haifa mile from these remains I arrived at a swamp, having
at the upper end a spring of water, which showed a temperature
of 107° Fahrenheit, whilst the thermometer in the open air
stood at 76°. The water was slightly bitter, and in quality
highly astringent.

The remains of a small fort or tower of chunam and stone
were found on the hill-side immediately over the spring. In
style it was different to any houses now found on the Somali
coast. It would not contain more than ten or twelve men,
and, I imagine, must have been intended as a kind of guard-
house over the spring. On a hill to the N.E. of this, several
small houses were found, each having a semicircular niche on
the north side, similar to the prayer-niche of the Mussulmans ;
but these again were built of loose stones, and I have seen
others like them on the coast to the eastward of Berbera.
Crossing the shoulder of the hill, another spring was found,
apparently of rather better quality than the former, and which
was the nightly resort of the wild ass, the ostrich, and other
animals, numbers of which were seen on the plains.

In the neighbourhood of the fort above mentioned abun-
dance of broken glass and pottery was found, from which I
infer that it was a place of considerable antiquity; but, though
diligent search was made, no traces of inscriptions could be
discovered.

The hill immediately over the spring is of moderate height,
and of limestone formation, having many shells imbedded.
Gypsum is found in large quantities, and, from its unusual
hardness, I imagine that it has been used as cement for the



Valley of Dunanjer, 57

aqueduct. There is no doubt but that the water from this
spring was carried down by this channel to the town, inasmuch
as no other water could be found at the termination of the
ruins. The nearest part of the aqueduct yet remaining is
fully one-third of a mile from the swamp, and at a higher
level. I am not certain if the spring is likewise below the
level of the ruins, but no traces of chunam or of any channel
could be found near it. The nation, however, who could con-
struct an aqueduct of so great a magnitude, would not find
much difficulty in raising water to a higher level. The fact
of the aqueduct being thus established, it remains now to dis-
cover what nation could have constructed, and at what time
the commerce of Berbera was sufficiently important to warrant
so costly an undertaking.

In the size of its channel, and in its mode of construction,
the Berbera aqueduct is similar to that near Aden, excepting
that in the former case stone is used, and in the latter brick..

During a short journey in 1 847, 1 found the country inland
from the hill of Dthubar consisting of low and unduk^ling
limestone ranges, thickly covered with tamarisk and aeaeia
trees, and on the sides of the hills with the gum-arabic. At the
distance of 2 hours from Dthubar I reached the pass of " Gudh
Harrirch," in which is to be seen a large cave, said to have been
in former times the residence of the Galla chief Havrirch,
who was expelled from the country by the descendants of
Isaakh. The rock at this part is an exceedingly pure white
limestone, and would be invaluable in Aden, were it not for the
expense of carriage, in the valley, close to the pass, Ted gra-
nite, porphyry, white marble, and large fragments of gypsum
are common. It is worthy of remark that the gum-arabic tree
at Berbera differs in every way from that exported from the
windward coast, the leaf and the tree both being smaller and
of a different shape. The plain beyond this valley, extending
1 hour's journey S.S.W., is infested with lions, hyenas, and
leopards ; and it is considered unsafe for a single inoividual to
cross it at night.

At the southern extremity of this plaini reached the valley
of Dunanjer, a steep ravine, having in its bed a few pools of
very bad and stinking water, almost unfit for man to drink,
but which, nevertheless, proved most acceptable to us after a
hot and fatiguing march. Passing over several low ranges of
limestone, through which in many places red granite had been
thrust, I reached another watercourse, having very steep banks
of 30 to 40 feet high, thickly wooded and having a most pictu-
resque appearance. The bed of the watercourse was of soft
white sand, in any part of i^hich water waa pBocurable by



58 Lt. Cruttenden an the Edoor Tribes and the Darrood.

scooping a hole a foot in depth. On the range of mountains
between Dunanjer and this valley I observed many large blocks
of very pure white marble, with an abundance of obsidian,
gypsum, and lai^ masses of basalt. The geological formation
of the country appeared to be entirely without order, and led
to the idea that by some extraordinary convulsion of nature
rocks of all kinds had been thrown together in one large con-
fused heap. A huge natural cairn might be observed 30 to 40
feet high, composed of six or seven different species of stone —
a block of marble lying over or under an eaually large boulder
of red granite, and flanked, perhaps, by a iragment of conglo-
merate or black basalt.

This valley is much infested with lions, leopards, &c., and
the traces of elephants were numerous. The diameter of the
lion's foot was 5 J inches, and of the elephant, after" several
measurements, 22 inches, which would give a height of up*
wards of 10 feet at the shoulders. This watercourse passes
round the western fliank of the Dunanjer range, and can be
traced down to the sea, close to the town of Berbera : after
heavy rains it discharges a large body of water into the bay.

From this valley my course lay over a rough and stony tract
of country, in many places well wooded and watered, but, so &r
as regaros formation, exhibiting if possible a still stranger
appearance than the valley above mentioned. Thousands of
ant-hills, rising like slender sandstone pillars, in many cases
14 feet high, were scattered in every direction, giving the
country the appearance of an immense Turkish cemetery —
many were hollowed out entirely, others were pierced with
smaller channels longitudinally, and a current of not air conld
be detected rushing through.

On first seeing these columns, I fancied that I had reached
some ancient ruins, so numerous were they. In one instance I
observed a huge block of marble, weighing many tons, having
three or four of these sand pillars round it, and bearing the
exact appearance of a tomb. On the brink of a cliff close by,
an enormous rock of perhaps 18 or 20 feet in diameter, and
diamond-shaped, stood exactly balanced on its point, and to all
appearance required but a push to send it down into the ravine
below. The number of graves found in every direction ex-
cited my surprise. They were well built and bore marks of
great antiquity, but no inscriptions were found on them. Night
closed in before we reached the plain of Shimberali, and we were
glad to find an empty sheepfold to shelter us for the night,
after a march of 17 hours on foot, of which 3 only could be
spared for a halt during the greatest heat of the day.

Shimberali is part of an extensive plain, reaching from a



Vegetation — Animals, 59

solitary hill called Deimoli to the southern mountain-range of
Koolies, and Woohur, the frontier of the Haber Gerhajis tribe.
It is inhabited by the Esa Moosee, a branch of the Haber
Awal, who are looked upon by the elder branches of the tribe
as a treacherous race, with whom it is advisable to keep on
good terms, and who in their turn are at deadly feud with a
branch of the Haber Gerhajis, residing on the mountains above
them, and known as the Sulhehgiddeb.

The plain is tolerably well wooded in some parts. Several
varieties of gum-trees are found. The mimosa, tamarisk, wild
fig, and several species of the cactus and aloe, are abundant ;
and in the deep hssures and rents made in the plain by the fury
of the mountain-torrents, a few date-trees are found. Ele-
phants, lions, leopards, hyenas, wolves, and jackals are to be
seen on the plain, and occasionally a troop of ostriches. Salt's
white antelope, the " sagarro " oi the Somali, the koodoo, the
kevel or scimetar-horned antelope, and the oryx, were the
varieties of the deer species observed ; the small antelope or
gazelle was very common. Jerboas and squirrels were nume-
rous, and a species of toucan. The white vulture, of enormous
size, and the common osprey, were the principal birds ob-
served. In the hot season much inconvenience is occasioned
by a species of hornet, the " dibber " of the Somali and the
zinib (?) of Bruce, who justly styles them a curse. The same
evil extends along the whole coast during the S.W. monsoon,
where the slaughtering a sheep brings the hornets round in
myriads, and very shortly compels the unlucky traveller to shift
his position as fast as possible from the neighbourhood of bis
Somali butcher.

The hill of Deimoli is a lofty conical mountain, in many
parts inaccessible. It is a great resort for beasts of prey,
especially for lions, and is therefore avoided by the shepherds.
It is apparently of limestone, and thickly wooded. At its base
stands a smaller hill, bare and barren, and bearing a most
extraordinary appearance, from its being indented in regular
furrows by the action of the rain from top to bottom. On
every side of Deimoli huge masses of rock lie piled on each
other, and in many of these Nature appears to have indulged
in the wildest vagaries. Several of these masses formed per-
fect funnels, and others exhibited a smooth round basin on
their upper surface, capable of containing many hundred
gallons of water.

From the top of Deimoli I was able to sketch the course of
the valley and watercourse above mentioned. For some dis-
tance on the plain (200 to 300 yards) it exhibits a running
stream — when it is lost in the s»id for perhaps the same dis-



60 Lt. Cruttendi-n on tite Edoor Tribes andthe Darrood.

tance; and then rc-appears as before. In almost every part
of its bed water is procurable by digging a foot deep. Large
buUrushcs and tall wiry grass grow in rank luxuriance oil
its banks, affording a good retreat for the wild pig, one long-
legged specimen of which was seen, and missed by me on my
return. Snakes are reported to be numerous, but I saw none.

After a long and fruitless search after the elephants, a herd
of which, seven in number, had passed a few hours before, and
after spending the night in the bed of a dry mountain-torrent,
I crossed over in a N.E. direction to examme another running
stream, where I found excellent water falling down shelving
limestone rock, forming pretty cascades, and collected into a
tolerably large stone basin, the overflowings of which were lost
in the sand. On my return to Dthubar I crossed over the
Dunanjer range more to the eastward, and found them of the
same formation as the hills I had observed on my way to
Shimberari. The distance travelled over in this walk I com-
pute at about 70 miles.

At a later period, accompanied by Commander C. D. Camp-
bell, of the Indian navy, I left Dthubar, and after walking in a
north-westerly direction, across a broad plain, covered with
ostriches, oryxes, koodoos, and quaggas, but all of whom, save
the latter, were too shy to admit our approaching within shot,
we reached the bed of a broad watercourse, naving in its
centre a stream of perhaps 8 to 10 feet in breadth, wnich at
the distance of a mile below is absorbed in the sand. The
native tradition says that the stream runs only by night, and
.from this it takes its name " Bheeyeh Ghora," " Night run-
ning water." The actual increase in the distance, occasioned
doubtless by the evaporation being so great during the day,
we found, by measurement, to be 135 yards, but the stream
had then dwindled down to a mere thread. The temperature
of the stream at 7 a.m. was 69°, in the open air 71°. FoUow-
. ing up the bed of this stream towards the hiUs, we observed in
many spots the ground white with the efflorescence of nitre ; the
bitter taste of the water was thus accounted for. As we ap-
proached the narrow defile in the hills, through which the
stream passed, pure salt was found adhering to the smooth
sandstone rocks, generally encrusted on a dark-coloured vein
from which water exuded, and shortly after we reached a power-
ful hot spring showing a temperature of- 125°, the thermometer
in the open air standing at 76°.

Above this hot spring, the valley became narrower, and
from the sandstone and limestone sides of the ravine water
was observed, at almost every yard, dropping and forming
large and beautiful stalactites. But what was most singular.



Hot and Cold Springs, 61

though the rock throughout was the same, a hot spring of
water would be found within a yard or two of another of cold
water, and though the hot springs were disagreeable to the
taste, the water obtained from those that were cold was sweet
and good.

Fully a hundred of these springs exist in this valley, and the
temperature of the main stream varied from 91° to 105° , the
highest temperature found in any of the hot springs being
125°, and the water appearing to be strongly impregnated with
iron.

A peculiar kind of creeper grows in great luxuriance in the
neighbourhood of the springs, which everyivhere ooze through
the rocks. The dragon's-blood tree was observed on the hills
above, and an ibis and a coney were seen, whilst a flock of large
apes noisily resented our intrusion upon their retirement.
The head of the stream, I was assured, was to be found in the
mountain-range of Waghur, which I have since personally
ascertained to be the fact. Near where the stream is lost in the
sand, we found an extensive burial-ground, and the remains of
several old buildings, of small dimensions and of no great anti-
quity. The distance of Bheeyeh Ghora from the sea is not
great, perhaps six miles ; and I have been assured by several
respectable natives that on the sea-shore north of Bheeyeh
Ghora, and at the Spot where its waters are discharged into
the ocean after heavy rains, the remains of an ancient reservoir
and aqueduct are to be found, similar to that previously de-
scribed as extending from Dthubar to Berbera.

It is worthy of remark that the m^ority of the streams run-
ning from the mountain- ranges of Waghur and Koolies are
bitter, and in quality highly astringent. There are, however,
others that afford most delicious and pure water, to be properly
appreciated only after a seven years residence at Aden. The
country to the south is described as an inclined plain without
hill or rock for seven days' journey ; and on arrival at the pro-
vince of Ogahden, we were told that stones sufficient to make
a fire-place were not to be found, whilst the country was one
immense prairie of some 20 days' extent.

The Haber Qerhajis, the eldest branch of the three tribes
of Edoor, reside chiefly in the mountains to the south of Ber-
bera, whence they extend to the country of Ogahden. They
are a powerful and warlike tribe, numbering many horses, in
addition to their flocks and herds, and have a nominal sultaun,
who possesses, however, but little influence or power over his
savage subjects. From this branch of the family of Isaakh
sprung the venerable saint Aber Khudle, whose tomb, south-
west from Berbera two days' journey,, is yet the rendezvous^



62 Lt. Cruttenden on the Edoor Tribes and the Darrood.

when any grave question arises affecting the interests of the
Edoor tribes in general. On a paper yet carefully preserved
in the tomb, and bearing the sign-manual of Belat, the slave of
one of the early Khaleefehs, fresh oaths of lasting friendship
and fresh alliances are made, to be broken again, as usual,
without a shadow of provocation. In the season of 1846 this
holy relic was brought to Berbera in charge of the Haber
Gerhajis, and on it the rival tribes of Aial Ahmed and Aial
Yunus swore to bury all animosity, and live as brethren in
future — with how much sincerity, the events of the two succeed-
ing seasons amply show, some scores of lives having been lost
on both sides.

In the country of the Haber Gerhajis the principal articles
of trade or produce are — ghee, myrrh, in small quantities and
of quality inferior to that produced in Ogahden and Murrey-
han, luban of the first quality, ivory, ostrich feathers, and
gum-arabic, with a small quantity of" sheima" or orchUla weed,
and a still smaller supply of ^^ warns," a kind of saffron, used by
Uie natives in Yemen to rub over their bodies.

The kafilas from the banks of the " Webbe " Shebeyli, from
the small province of Gananeh to the south of the above river,
and from Ogahden, pass through the country of the Haber
Gerhajis on their way to Berbera. Excepting the slave-
kafila from Abyssinia, these are the most valuable caravans of
the season, bringing ivory from the Galla tribes of Sidama,
south of the Webbe Gananeh, ostrich feathers, myrrh, and
frankincense. They frequently exceed 2000 camels in number,
and are well guarded by the men of Ogahden, who may always
be recognised amidst the crowd at Berbera, by the red colour
of their robes, produced, as they all declare, by the fine red dust
peculiar to their country.

From Gananeh to Berbera is 24 days for a kafila. From the
Webbe Shebeyli 19 days, and from Ogahden 9 days. I con-
sider the journey fully practicable for a European, if at aU
Imown to the Somali tribes on the coast, ana in the more
distant province of Ogahden, his reception would be kind,
and his person and property safe. In the map of N.E.
Africa * appended to this memoir, will be seen the position of
the different tribes north of the Webbe Shebeyli, and my idea
of the course of that river from Zeyla down to below Mukdesha.
My information has been obtained from many natives of different
tribes, and by comparing one with the other, no very serious error
can arise in a journey of 20 days, since the country, after the
first ranges are surmounted, presents a level for several days.

Amongst the Edoor tribes, as with the descendants of Dar-

* Vide Map of Somali coast, in the last volume. — Ed.



Poison — Correctness of Bruce. 63

tood, there exists a class of men who never carry the spear and
shield, but whose sole arms are the bow and poisoned arrow.
With a couple of arrows in his mouth, and half a dozen more
dangling from his long tangled hair, the ^^ Rahnu " is feared
alike by man and beast, and in all forays is looked upon as an
iuTaluable ally. Inferior in caste, and not ranking with the
gentle blood of the Somali aristocracy, the " Rahnu " approaches
in every respect to the freedman of the Roman. They are
expert and daring hunters, crippling the elephant by a blow
on the back sinew with a heavy knife,* and attacking even the
stately African lion with no better arms than the tiny, though
unerring, " nishab " or arrow.

The tree from which the poison is made, I found in the
mountains of the Ahl-Oor Singally, and at Aden I had a small
quantity of poison prepared by a cunning Rahnu, in my own
house. Its effects on an animal are instantaneously fatal, and
I have been repeatedly assured that on a human being the
poison has equal power, causing the hair and nails to drop off,
and the sufferer to die in less than half an hour. The only
cure is immediate excision of the part wounded, and the num-
ber of ghastly scars visible on the bodies of the Somalis amply
testify to the dread in which the poisoned barb of the arrow i»
held amon^t them.

This poison I imagine to be the same as that described by
Major Sir W. Cornwallis Harris, in his work on South Africa,
when speaking of the arms of "Burhman/' except that
amongst the Rahnus the juice of the euphorbium is not made
use of.

The last branch of the Western tribes is the Haber el
Jahleh, who possess the sea-ports from Seyareh to the ruined
village of RuKudah, and as far as the town of Heis. Of these
towns, Kurrum is the most important, from its possessing a
tolerable harbour, and from its being the nearest point from
Aden, the course to which place is N.N.W., consequently
the wind is fair, and the boats laden with sheep for the
Aden market pass but one ni^ht at sea, whilst those from Ber-
bera are generally three. Wnat greatly enhances the value of
Kurrum however is its proximity to the country of tha Dulba-
hanta, who approach within four days of Kurrum, and who
therefore naturally have their chief trade through that port.
The Ahl Yusuf, a branch of the Haber el Jahleh, at present
hold possession of Kurrum, and between them and the tribes
to windward there exists a most bitter and irreconcilable feud,
the consequence of sundry murders perpetrated about five

'^ This was seen by Commander Campbell aiid myself, when inland frofn Berbera,
iind Bruce again has spoken only tlie truth.



64 Li. Cruttenden on tlie Edoor Tribes and the Darrood,

years since at Kurrum, and which hitherto have not been
avenged.

The small ports of Entcrad, Unkor, Heis, and Rukudah are
not worthy of mention, with the exception of the first named
place, which has a trade with Aden in sheep ; and, leaving the
Haber el Jahleh at Heis, therefore, it remains, but to notice
the ancient settlement of Meyet, the burial-place of the founder
of the Edoor nation, and their present limit to the eastward.
Meyet is situated on a small plain bounded on the south and
south-west by the western extreme of the lofty mountains of
the Ahl Oor Singally, which here approach within two hours of
the sea. From Meyet a large quantity of white ebony is ex-
ported, as also a long and thin rafter used both at Aden and
on the coast, in the construction of native houses. The hills
immediately over the town afford a large supply of very fine
gums, and the place carries on a considerable trade with both
Aden and Macuila.

[Aristocat]

The stranger is at once struck with the mas^nitude of the
burial-ground at Meyet, which extends for fully a mile each
way. Attachment to the memory of their forefather Isaakh
yet induces many aged men of the western tribes to pass the
close of their lives at Meyet, in order that their tombs may
be found near that of their chief, and this will account for the.
unusual size of this cemetery. Many of the graves have
head-stones of madrepore, on which is cut in relief the name of
the tenant below, and of these many are to be found 250 years
old.

In my notice of the western tribes, I have made use of the
word Edoor to distinguish the descendants of Isaakh from
those of his fellow-countryman Darrood, but it may be as
well to observe that the western tribes are averse to the ap-
pellation, and invariably correct the person who styles them
Edoor, by telling him that the Edoor are the Galla tribes.
The Mijierthaine told me that the Galla family into which
Sheikh isaakh married was called " Durr," and from that is
derived tlie name of "Edoor ;" and the Haber Gerhajis, on
the other hand, retaliate by quoting " Dafrood " as an oflfshoot
from the^ same Pagan source.

I found it impossible to obtain any estimate of the number
of their tribes, but the population in the interior is doubt-
less very great. The advantage almost universally taken
of the liberal allowance of wives sanctioned by the rrophet,
and the prolific nature of the Somali females, are strong
arguments to that effect, but it would be idle to attempt to put
down any fixed number for the population of this part of N.E.
Africa, and I much doubt, if all the tribes were computed



Ogahdm—The Galla Tribes. 65

separately, from report, whether we should even then obtain
an approximate estimate of the truth.

To the South and S.S.W. of Berbera, on the road to Hur-
rur, the kafilas pass though the country of the Burtirrhi, and
Girrhi, the two most western branches of the family of Dar-
rood. Of these two tribes little is known. The Emirs of
Hurrur have for many years intermarried with the Burtirrhi,
and this gives them a certain degree of influence,but they do not
visit the sea-coast so commonly as the other tribes, and appear
to be a pastoral race, occupied solely in tending their flocks
and herds, and in planting the coffee-tree on the low ranges
S.E. of Hurrur.

They are bordered on the S.E. and E. by the province of
Ogahden, a country of considerable extent, bounded on the
S. by the Webbe and on the E. by Murreyhan. From Ber-
bera to Ogahden is nine days, of which I am assured that four
are without water. The fertile valley of the Nogal passes
Ogahden on its northern side, and throughout the province
generally the ground is cultivated, and a large quantity of
white Jowari is grown, forming the common food of the
people.

Ogahden is stated to be a level country, possessing excellent
pasturage for cattle, with abundance of water, which is pro*
cured by digging wells 6 to 8 feet in depth. The soil is re-
markable for its redness, but the purity of the air is highly
extolled. From the number of their flocks and herds, the
inhabitants, as might be expected, export large quantities of
. ghee from Berbera, and carry on a regular trade with the
Galla tribes to the southward of the Webbe Shebeyli, through
the intervention of the people resident at Gananeh, who act as
brokers on the occasion; llie goods carried down for barter
are white and blue cloth, cowries and beads, on which last
an enormous profit is realised. The gums are purchased
by the skin of 60 lbs., ostrich feathers by the pound, and ivory
by the frasila of 20 lbs., if of large quality and good of its
kind.

The Galla tribes are described as a nation to be trusted if
once an acquaintance is formed. They appear to understand
cultivation of the soil, and produce immense quantities of
jowari, which is retailed at a cheap rate on the east coast of
Africa, at the ports of M ukdesha Juba, Patta, Lamoo, &c.
and thence exported to Hadramaut. Bruce mentions the river
Webbe Gananeh, or Jub, as the Yas, or Webbe ; and, as an ad-
ditional instance of his general veracity as a traveller, I may
mention that on my inquiring about this name from the Somali
who recently had returned from the river, he told me that it wa9

VOL. XIX. F



66 Lt. Cruttenden on the Edoor Tribes and the Darrood.

occasionally termed so from the stream bein^fuU of yahass, or
alligators, rendering its navigation on a raft nighly dangerous.
From the word " x ahass" Bruce doubtless derives his name.
It is now well known that Webbe in the Somali language means
a river, whilst Kebbei or Kibbee signifies the bed of a river in
which pools of water are found. After a long search after it,
I found by accident that the river Durdur, said to exist four
days inland from Burnt Island, meant in the language of the
country a running stream, but no river ; and doubtless, as our
acquaintance with this part of the country increases, we shall
find that the confusion now existing relative to the Webbe will
be satisfactorily cleared up, and the number of rivers laid
down in Mr. McQueen's mai) reduced to two only— the Jub
or the Webbe Gananeh, ana its northern brother the Webbe
Shebeyli, the three smaller streams running between them not
being worthy of mention,

Ogahden is governed by a chief wMo takes the title of
Oghass, but who, like all other Somali chiefs, can boast of
little save the name. Horses are described as being abundant
and very cheap ; camels equally so. The country, from all
accounts, is safe, and the climate healthy ; and a journey through
Ogahden down to Gananeh, or down the Wady Nogal, would
amply repay the traveller. Amongst the families of Darrood,
Ogahden ranks as second, but in numerical strength and extent
of country it would probably take the first place.

Of Murreyhan but little is known, bordering as it does on
the Haweea tribe, who are a difierent caste of people to the
Somalis ; they are not looked upon with much consideration,
but their country must abound in guins, myrrh, and ivory.
The valley of the Nogal borders upon them, and they are
separated from the sea by a belt of country occupied by the
tribe of the Haweea ; the Somali and the Seedee of the coast
of Suwahhil.

Murrejhan cultivates no grain, and is separated from the
Shebeyli river by Haweea again. Kafilas from this province an-
nually arrive at Berbera, bringing the best of myrrh, and the. ^
finest ostrich feathers and ivory. Their breed of horses is
highly esteemed : and 1 believe that a traveller might penetrate
the country with ease, provided he took the precaution of being
passed from tribe to tribe, a measure indispensable amongst
the Arabs, and highly desirable amongst the more savage
inhabitants of N.E. Africa.

Between Murreyhan and the country of the Ahl Oor Sing-
ally the great pasture-ranges of the Dulbahanta, a level coun-
try abounding in grass, water, and timber, and without a stone.
Unlike their other brethren, -the Dulbahanta are a nation who



The Dulbahanta— Visit to the Chief. 67

fi^ht chieflv on horseback, their arms being two spears and a
shield. Tneir horses are powerful and courageous ; the breed
descended, according to Somali tradition, from the stud of Sulei-
man, the son of David, and consequently is highly valued. The
Dulbahanta, as far as I have seen of them, are a fine martial
race of men, second to none of the branches of Darrood either
in conduct or appearance, and they are described as being
courteous and hospitable to the stranger who visits them.
They have generally two Sultauns, or Gerads ; the elder of
whom, Mohammed Ali Harran, governs the eastern limits of the
province, whilst his colleague, Ali Gerad, recently deceased,
guards the N.W. frontier from the thieving Haber el Jahleh
in the neighbourhood of Kurrum and from the Ogahden
family of Noh Ahmar.

The Dulbahanta have no grain whatever, and subsist chiefly
on milk, save when want of rain renders it necessary to thin
the countless flocks and herds that roam over their bound-
less prairies. They have but few gums, but they bring down
ivory, ostrich feathers, and ghee in abundance. Wild beasts
are numerous, the lion especially so. The cameleopard is
found on the grassy plains bending down to the southward from
the stupendous mountain -chain of the Jebel Ahl Oor Singally 5
and the koodoo, the oryx, and the black rhinoceros are also
common in the same neighbourhood.

North of the Dulbahanta the country, for so great a distance
level, begins to rise gradually. The grassy plains become more
rocky, small limestone ranges are passed, until at last the level
plateau of the Jebel Ahl Oor Singally is attained ; when the
traveller, from the dizzy brink of Eyransid (the Cloud-bearer)
looks down a sheer precipice of 1 500 to 2000 feet, and sees the
villages of the Ahl Oor Singally dotted along the sandy sea-
coast 6500 feet below him.

This magnificent range, so aptly named, and rising in solemn
grandeur about 25 miles from the sea, had long been looked at
from a distance by me ; and a visit to the Gerad, or chief, of
the Ahl Oor Singally, in February, 1848, afforded me the oppor-
tunity, so long coveted, of visiting them. Between Mohamed
AU Gerad and myself frequent friendly letters and messages
had passed by means of the boats that touched at his ports on
their way to Aden ; and during this my first interview with
him, he appeared anxious to get "his name written in the
books of the English," as his Mijjerthaine brothers had done.
An assurance that I might go anywhere 1 pleased over his
country, was caught at on my part with a readiness that ap-
peared rather to alarm him; but seeing that my tent and
travelling kit was already on its way to the shore, he appa-

F 2



68 Lt. Cruttknden on the Edoor Tribei and the Darrood.

rently thought it useless to argue the matter or ma^ify the
perils of the road. By the following afternoon we had left the
town of Ras Goree, and, taking a small guard of elders from his
own tribe, we bid his Majesty an affectionate farewell, and
turned our steps in the direction of the lofty barrier range of
Eyransid.

An hour's sharp walking took us some distance up the bed
of a watercourse, having a general southerly direction, and the
night was passed in a small clearing under the cliff. At
sunrise the march was resumed, and, passing some three to
four miles up the same watercourse, in which we observed seve-
ral large monkeys and some remarkably fine antelopes, we
crossed a low shoulder, covered with gum-trees, amongst whidi
we found the myrrh, and had an opportunity of collecting a
small portion of its gum. It was the same tree as that sent
down by me to Bombay some years ago, and the only one, as I
was assured, affording the myrrh of commerce. Entering the
bed of the mountain-torrent a second time, we observed
the broad-leafed luban-tree (Meyti), the Wadi and Adadi
species of the gum-arabic, and large specimens of the Harraz,
or baubul-tree. The sides of the watercourse were re^larly-
disposed strata of fine and coarse gravel interspersed with huee
boulders of limestone. Fragments of porphyry were frequently
picked up, and small quantities of pure white marble. Shortly
before nme we reached a pool of water in the bed of the
mountain-torrent, which had a decidedly bitter taste, similar
to th^t before described at Bheyeh Ghora. The temperature
was pleasant, not exceeding 81 under a tent at 11 a.m. The
general direction of the watercourse during this march was N.
and S. By three in the afternoon we were once more on our
way. The ascent became very steep, and we now came upon
large fragments of ironstone interspersed with lava and black
basalt, small masses of red ochre were common, as also hard-
ened clay ; and the frankincense-tree now began to be very
abundant. A most fatiguing ascent of two hours exhausted
man and beast ; and, too tired to trouble ourselves about the
tent, we lay down on the mountain side, and, with the thermo-
meter at 65°, and the clouds rolling round us, we were soon
drenched to the skin with the dew.

The hour for morning prayer found us packed up and on our
road. For three hours we crossed over undulating hills, every
mile rapidly increasing the elevation. The dragon's-blood tree
now appeared in abundance, and, from my former experience
amongst the Mijjerthaine, I was not surprised to find that its
value was unknown in the Oor Singally country. The " bo-
phain " of Socotra, a peculiar tree found also in Aden, but I



2%tf Poison-tree — TVax:k of the Rhinoceros. 69

believe possessing no generic name, was seen on every side ;
and another extraordinary specimen, like a gigantic bulb of
3 to 4 feet in diameter, with a few small sprouts, not worthy of
the name of branches, springing from its top, attracted our
attention. At an estimated height of 4000 feet we halted
during the heat of the day, with the thermometer 76° at noon.
The country now began to assume the general character of a
limestone range. The watercourse that we had left the day

Erevious was to be seen winding its way into the ravines of the
igh range, and here and there a cluster of white limestone
slabs pointed out the site of an ancient graveyard.

At 3 P.M. the ascent was resumed. The country became
more thickly wooded and more beautiful as we advanced. The
track of the rhinoceros warned us to have our rifles in readiness,
and before sunset we pitched in a small level spot of ground
about 1000 feet below the Peak of Eyransid. A stream of
delicious water was found within half a mile of the tent, the
only drawback upon which was that it abounded in small
leeches, which rendered it necessary to be cautious in drinking
without due examination. The tree from the root of which
ia made the poison for the Somali arrow, was here pointed out
to us, and I have now with me a piece of it. Here, as in other
places, extensive burial-grounds were observed, but owing to
the long drought the people had retired to the mountains far-
ther inland, and had we not taken the precaution of driving a
few sheep with us from the sea, we should have been on very
short commons indeed.

Sunday morning afforded us a rest, but in the afternoon we
pushed on for an hour, passing on our road many places where
the track of the rhinoceros was recent. The cactus appears to
be the favourite food of this animal, for we found many trees
torn down and half eaten also. A beautiful red flower, too
delicate to preserve, was here first observed. Specimens of
red ochre, and fossil shells filled with the same, were to be picked
up at every step, and the gum-arabic had now' replaced the
luban or frankincense-tree. Before sunset we halted on a plain
immediately below the summit of the mountains, and were
honoured with the presence of the sister of Mahomed Ali
Gerad, who, in company with a relation, was travelling to her
home in the Wady Nc^al. The night was bitterly cold, the
thermometer showmg a temperature of 48% and the dew falling
like soft rain. An occasional howl from the jungle warned us
that leopards were to be found in the neighbourhood, and kept
our Somali conductors on the qui vive^ and we were not sorry
to recommence our journey at sunrise.

Sending the tent round by a more practicable road, we



70 Lt. Cruttenden on tfie Edoor Trihes and the Darraod.

scaled the almost perpendiculaT cliff rising some 750 feet above
lis, and by eight o'clock found ourselves on the summit of
Eyransid, 6500 feet above the sea, and the first Europeans that
had ever placed foot on the soil.

To describe the grandeur of the prospect before us is im-
possible. Kange after range lay stretched like a map at our
feet, and the view was bounded only by the ocean. The towns
of Ras Goree and Gahm were to be seen dotted on the glaring
sandy shore, and the Euphrates brig-of-war lay like a speck on
the water. At noon the thermometer stood at 64% and tne scud
driving past and below us, warned us to prepare for a cold
night. As the afternoon advanced, the clouds packed heavy
and thick below us, and the rocket and blue-light fired to
notify our safety to our friends on board, were consequently
not seen at the ship.

To our surprise the temperature during the night was not
so low as on the plain 800 feet beneath us ; the thermometer
standing at 52°. Warm clothing was, however, indispensable ;
and our Somali guards peevishly remarked, that though we
were always wishing for cold weather, we did not appear in-
clined to benefit by it, judging from the blankets, &c. that we
were glad to creep under : as they had but a single cotton-
cloth themselves, some little excuse might be made for them ;
and a venerable old ram, purchased the next morning from a
passing Dulbahanta Somali, restored them to their good
humour. We spent the following day in wandering over the
level plateau forming the summit of the range. The wild fig,
25 to 30 feet in height, was thinly scattered along the ridge.
The dragon's-blood was observed 26 inches in diameter and 18
feet in height. The ebony-tree was plentiful, but of small size;
a tree similar to, and possibly the lignumvitae, attracted our
notice ; and cedar- trees, some of them 24 inches in diameter
and 25 feet high, were common. In cutting the cedar we
observed that the wood which appeared to be growing had no
scent, and was nearly white ; whilst the more aged branches,
that apparently bore no leaf, were of a very deep colour, and
had a very strong perfume. The wood is neither prized nor
used by the Somalis.

Various and very beautiful wild flowers were scattered over
the plain. The aloe was abundant and of good quality, but
not used or known by the people. Many species of euphor-
bium and milk- bushes were seen, but no frankincense or gum-
arabic.

The summit of the range is composed of tabular masses of
limestone, covered with small nodules, and very cellular,
thereby rendering walking most uncomfortable from the sharp-

Delightful Climate — Gum-trees, 71

ness of the rock. At one point that we visited, a most magni-
ficent natural wonder presented itself to us — a column of rock,
perhaps 50 feet square, had by some convulsion of nature
been separated from the mountain side, and stood alone, a
mighty pillar of 1500, feet in height, with hardly a break
or irregularity in its sides, so straight had been the fracture.
Trees and the grass of years remained on its summit un-
touched ; the intervening 50 feet forming an impassable gulf,
and at its foot deep caverns went in far beneath the parent
mountain, through whose windings a stone thrown down from
above could be heard to reverberate long after it had passed
from sight.

A second night of cloud and fog prevented again our com-
munication with the brig by rocket or blue-light, but the
*' seraj " or light of the English will long be held in remem-
brance by the Ahl Oor Singally, who could not sufficiently
admire the one or the other. You are the kings of this world
in wisdom, said the solemn M ahamonood Abdi, ''And what are
we in comparison ! Thank heaven, our world is to come ! "

After a two days' stay in this delightful climate, we com-
menced the descent by the former route, intending to spend
a day at the water 1000 feet below, and examine the frank-
incense trees in the neighbourhood. Scrambling down the
rock, we passed many beautiful aloe-trees of 20 feet in height,
having several branches and bearing a beautiful scarlet bell-
flower of the size and shape of the fox-glove. The aloe plant
(the Socotra species) observed on the summit bore a yellow
flower and of a different shape altogether. The camels that
had been sent round, as before, joined us with the melancholy
tale of two of our sheep having been wounded by a leopard on
their way down, and their having been obliged to cut their
throats in consequence. Time unfortunately was too valuable
to be lost, and we were compelled, though very unwillingly, to
leave the culprit unpunished.

We halted at the water under the shade of some gigantic
fig-trees, laced together by an enormous creeper of some hun-
dred feet in length, and probably the caoutchouc- tree. Rock
partridges were here found, but no animals, save Salt's white
antelope, and hungry hyenas^ who during the night made a
meal of one of our water-skins. The frankincense found on
the rocks over this spring was of the large leaf kind, known by
the name of meyeti, and not much prized ; but, independently
of gum-arabic and frankincense, there were many other gum-
trees, for which I could find no name. Of these, one^ a speci-
men of which I brought to Aden, is, I feel sure, gum-elemi;
and another variety was shown to us, the gum from which was



72 Lt. Cruttenden m the Edoor Tribes and the Darrood.

used by the Somalis to cleanse the hair. To a botanist these
mountains would afford an inexhaustible field for research,
and it is much to be hoped that the Flora of the Somali coast
may ere long be described in the manner that its beautiful
varieties deserve.

On our return to Ras Goree, the chief tovm of the Ahl Oor
Singally, we found that our unaccountable proceedings in the
mountain-range had excited much alarm. Amongst the won-
derful stories, our having found the gold-tree was confidently
asserted ; and it was significantly remarked that the English,
by carrying away stones and trees from Aden when they sur-
veyed tne harbour, were enabled to capture the place after-
wards with ease. Fearful however, apparently, of giving
offence, the chief refrained from Questioning us, and allowed
us to repair on board, without tne slightest demur at the

E rices or presents that we thought sufficient recompense for
is trouble.

The country of the Oor Singally may be described as a lofly
plateau of limestone mountains, precipitous to the north, and
gradually sloping to the south. Between the mountains and
uie sea undulatmg ranges occur, intersected by ravines, and
thickly wooded ; whilst uie belt of level ground near the sea
is thinly sprinkled with bushes, and exhibiting a plain of white
sand. The Oor Singally country extends &om Bunder Zeeahdeh
to Bunder Jedid.

The tribe is powerful and warlike. Brothers of the Mijjer-
thaine by the same mother, they generally coalesce should war
break out ; but petty feuds and plunder are of frequent oc-
currence.

The Oor Singally* are divided into several dans, of whom
the following are the most important : — 1st, Gerad Abdullah,
the royal branch, from which the title of Gerad or chief
descends by hereditary right. They reside on the sloping
southern side of the great mountain-range of Eyransid, or the
" Cloud-bearer." 2nd, the Noh Ahmar, who are found at
Bunder Jedid. 3rd, Ogeiss Lubbah, to whom belong two out
of the three villages of Ras Goree. 4th, Aden Seyd, at the
village of Gahm, and the mountains above. 5th, Mayedth,
resident at Door Deree. And, lastly, the numerous clan of
Dubeiss, who occupy the towns of Ekyeh, and extend to
Bunder Zeeahdeh, where they join the Mijjerthaine.

The Oor Singally have numbers of horses, and of a good
breed. With the exception of the tribe of Dubeiss, the arms
used by them are the two spears and shield. The Dubeiss

♦ ** Bringfer of good iiewi.**



Neatness of the Graves. 73

are nearly 5000 strong, and fight with the bow and poisoned
arrow alone. It is worthy of remark that in this tribe theft
is looked upon ^th abhorrence ; and though, in the event of a
wreck, the natives would doubtless consider it fair to plunder,
still during my stay amongst them, though many a tempting
opportunity of pilfering occurred, not an article was lost. To
call a man a tnief is a deadly insult, to be washed out by
blood alone. Pity it is that the Somali tribes of the Edoor
have not the same prejudice in favour of honesty.

It is a mistake to suppose that the high ranges produce the
best frankincense. As before stated, we found no luban-
trees on the summit of Eyransid, though at the elevation of
2000 to 3000 feet they were abundant. The traveller in
crossing the Somali country generally is struck with the ap-
pearance of boundary-lines dividing the hills into portions.
These landmarks have existed probably for centuries, and
serve to denote the limits of each family's gum-trees. In the
Oor Singally tribes we were assured that 3ie gum-trees were
never planted, but that they increased in course of nature. In
the Mijjerthaine country we observed s^eral voung trees that
had been transplanted, and we were Ihen told that in some
distFicts the trees were regularly cultivated like the coffee, and,
naturally, the produce was increased seven-fold.

Frankincense, myrrh, sumuk or gum arable, shenneh (orchil),
and ghee, form the export of this tribe ; and a peculiar kind of
gum, called " felleh-telleh." I could not find the tree pro-
ducing this gum, and 1 can hardly fancy, from the specimens
in my possession, that it is the Persian lulay-fulah, the fruit of
the aloe-tree, as Richardson gives it in his Dictionary. It is
imported into Aden in large quantities from the coast, but the
merchants cannot tell me uie use made of it.

The graves found in the Somali country generally, and
especially amongst the tribes of the Ahl Oor Singally, are
remarkable for uieir neatness. They are built of white slabs
of limestone, almost marble, and surrounded by a circle of
stones, the space within being neatly gravelled; but at
Bunder Goree, in the Mijjerthaine territory, and in the neigh-
bourhood of Berbera, very ancient graves are found, consisting
of a hea^ of stones, frequently 7 to 8 feet in height, and 15 to
18 feet in diameter at the base, hollowed in the centre, and
with no headstone, similar in all respects to those described by
Mr. Richardson in his travels in the great desert of the Sahara.
They are, I fancy, relics of the Galla tribes, who once resided
on the coast, but we could obtain no information regarding them.

To a traveller wishing to ascend the mountain-ranges of the
Jebel Ahl Oor Singally, I should recommend the small port of
Doorderee, to the eastward of Ras Groree, as the best starting-



74 Lt. Cruttkndkn on the Edoor Tribes and the Darrood.

point. The mountain-spurs there approach nearer the sea,
and there is not the same scarcity oi water. Moreover that
part of the mountain-district called Minndh, on which the
people throughout the year keep immense herds of horned
cattle, lies in his way. 1 do not anticipate any difficulty being
thrown in the way by the chiefs, nor would the journey be very
expensive ; whilst the bracing climate, pure air, and magnifi-
cent scenery must prove most advantageous to an invalid.

The Mijjerthaine tribe has already been described by me in a
Memoir forwarded to Government in 1843 ; and, on looking
over my notes, I do not find it requisite to make any alteration,
excepting in one or two minor points. The luban meyeti is
there described as being the most valuable species of frankin-
cense, which I have since ascertained not to be the case. And
again, where the Mijjerthaine tribe is spoken of as inferior to
the western Somalis : — a few years' more experience has proved
to me that the Mijjerthaine and Ahl Oor Singally tribes are
nnmeasurably superior to those of the Edoor; and, though
given to plunder a wreck (a fault sometimes found in England),
they will not rob the stranger of his own private property, and
life is safe amongst them. With this very brief tribute to the
manly character of the Mijjerthaine, I wUl now pass on to Has
Hafoon, the southern extreme of my wanderings on the Somali
coast.

Ras Hafoon, or " The Surrounded," is in the Mijjerthaine
territory, and tenanted by the Aial Fatha branch of the family
of Othman. It consists of a nearly square headland of 600 to
700 feet in height, formed of sandstone and limestone. The
outer edge of the peninsula is perfectly flat and tabular, and
the interior consists of undulating hills deeply intersected by
ravines and the courses of mountain totrents. It is connected
with the mainland by a long narrow neck of white sand, shells,
and mud, with a few stunted bushes thinly scattered along it ;
and from its being thus almost an island, I imagine it takes
its name Hafoon.

The southern bay is of course best adapted for ships during
the strength of the N.E. monsoon, but a change of two or
three points in the direction of the wind to the eastward
causes a swell to roll in, and a surf to break on the beach. On
our arrival there we found a few miserable Somali huts,
and a population of perhaps 50 people, who oflFered ivory,
ostrich feathers, ambergris, and fish-teeth for sale. The bay
is much frequented by the shark-fishers from the Arabian
coast, many of whom reside here throughout the year, merely
moving their fishing craft to the other side of the isthmus as
the monsoon changes.

A walk of seven or eight miles brought us to the N. W. point



Lagoon of Hundah. 75

of the cape, whence we embarked in a very crazy boat for the
mainland, The bay when we crossed was too shallow for
anything but very small vessels, and I feel confident that a
ship would not be able to ride in safety throughout the S.W.
monsoon, owing to the heavy swell that must roll round the
point and the violent gusts of wind blowing across the head-
land. This northern bay, or Khore Hardeah, I should imagine
to be the most unhealthy spot on the Somali coast. Its shores,
and the bottom of the bay, are covered with decomposed vege-
table matter, which on being disturbed gives fortn a noxious
gas that is perfectly sickening, and in which the unfortunate
traveller who longs for a bathe sinks leg deep ; and yet we found
many fishermen living on the sea-shore, who from lon^ habit
had become accustomed to these exhalations, and wished for no
better place.

We pursued our way for about nine miles to the lagoon of
Hundah, passing over a flat country composed almost entirely
of coral and limestone^ and evidently at one time covered by
the sea. At Hundah, to our great disappointment, we found
the lagoon salt-water, except at its head, where it was barely
drinkable ; a well of good water was however found a few yards
higher up, which shortly was crowded by the flocks and herds
from the wooded plains inland of us. Our very uncommon
appearance, the tent and our baggage, occasioned unbounded
astonishment to the natives, who poured in on every side, but
no incivility was offered, and no article of our baggage was
missing when we prepared to start on the following day.

Milk was brought to us in abundance which was paid for in
blue cotton cloth, and sheep were equally attainable. Hafoon,
however, like the whole Somali coast during the early part of
1848, was suffering from long-continued drought, which had
occasioned much misery amongst them.

Durinff the time that the French surveying-vessels were
anchored in the southern bay in 1846, their crews cleared out
one of the few wells found there, and thus procured a supply
of ffood water. The other wells were brackish and bitter, and
had become deteriorated by constant use.

In the northern bay, or Khore Hardeah, we found no water
at all, but at the bottom of the bay, at a place called Khor
Hashera, we were told that a stream of water ran into the sea.
It is possible that the river mentioned in old writers as exist-
ing in the neighbourhood of Hafoon may be this stream, and
Khor Hashera the ancient Opone.

During tlie S.W. monsoon, a kind of fiiir, similar to that at
Berbera, though much smaller, is annually observed at Khore
Hardeah. The merchants from MacuUa, Shahr, and from the
Mijjerthaine Bunders to the northward and westward, attend



76 Capt. Carless on the Malabar Hurricane of April, 1847.

this meeting about the end of May, when their bugulas are
hauled up on the beach, and a brisk trade is carried on through-
out the S.W. monsoon, in gums, ostrich feathers, hides, ivory,
and ghee. Large quantities of ambergris are also brought for
sale, and the price demanded is very great Elephant hunt-
ing is foUowea by those who have guns ; and last year upwards
of 35 were killed by a party of gun-men brought by a specu-
lating Somali from Brava on the coast. A good trade might
be carried on between Mauritius and Uafoon in asses. These
could be procured at Hafoon in great numbers for five to six
dollars each, and I should imagine, consequently, that the
speculation would answer well, especially as the voyage would
be so short in the N.E. monsoon.